Oryol list – embroidery amulet (pictures)
Content
- Orlovsky list - features of embroidery
- "Set" or filling technique inside the contour
- Branki
- Plots and motifs of embroidery Orel
- Video: Old Russian embroidery "Orlovskiy spis"
Oryol list.Such a mysterious name does not belong to a fairy tale, but to an ancient embroidery, territorially related to the Russian lands, more specifically to the city of Orel, as is evident from its name. Indeed, this embroidery has traditionally been made in the Orel province since the times when the Vyatichi tribes lived there. Various symbols, which in those ancient times were pagan, are widespread in it. These signs served as a talisman for people, therefore to this day the plot line of the Orel copy is considered and is mainly protective.
Orlovsky list - features of embroidery
In the local history museum of the city of Orel to this daymore than a hundred examples of embroidery are kept, the age of which dates back to the 18th century. Those same symbols, which were considered magical, had the form of rhombuses, crosses or various birds, as well as other signs. The contours of the composition were always trimmed with a tambour or stem stitch, and the filling inside the contour was done using the "set" technique. This type of stitch is counted stitch. It resembles counted "satin stitch". At the same time, each embroiderer invented her own, unique pattern for filling, came up with drawings and original combinations. The names of these patterned fillings (branka) sound very expressive: "drobnushki", "raven's eye", "wave".
In the color scheme of the embroidery, the Orlovsky list in itsThe color range allows for the prevalence of various shades of red, and less often blue. The spectrum expanded only in the 20th century, when yellow, green and black were added to it. The red and blue combination of colors has had a deep meaning since ancient times. Red symbolized life itself, and blue meant the sky and water. The name is also interesting: Oryol spis. There are many different opinions, but research shows that the word "spis" means "to copy". There is a possibility that Oryol craftswomen copied their fairy-tale motifs, observing the man-made frost patterns on the windows when they embroidered by the light of a torch on endless winter evenings.
According to another, no less plausible version,The Orlov copy appeared as an organic continuation of ancient Russian embroidery with gold and silver threads. This idea is suggested by the similarity of the rounded forms of both embroideries. The presence of a stem pattern and the uneven filling of the figures also coincide. The peculiarity of the Orlov copy is its versatility. The diversity in forms, symbols, various figures and outlines of animals is striking.
"Set" or filling technique inside the contour
To perform counted seams, a structure is requiredfabrics with uniform weave, the same density and thickness of the base threads. The stitch count of the seam should correspond to the count of the fabric threads. The "set" technique is a double-sided fast sewing. It is recommended to perform the "forward needle" stitch according to the thread count, taking into account the pattern. The working thread is carried out with a continuous straight stitch in the horizontal or vertical directions, from one end of the work to the other and back. According to the thread count of the fabric, an alternate transition to the front and back sides is also carried out. The negative of the pattern appears on the back of the work. Thus, as a result, the "set" pattern has the appearance of parallel rows of vertical or horizontal stitches, which are laid through one or two threads.
Branki
The term "branchi" is closely related to embroidery.Orlovskiy spis. The outlines of this embroidery are distinguished by their great diversity. These are rhombic and various geometric motifs, fancy flowers and long leaves with cuts. The outlines of the figures are trimmed with a tambour or stem stitch in several folds of dark-colored thread. Inside the outline, each small detail of the ornament is filled, sewing them with the smallest multi-colored sections, which are usually called branka. The pattern in them is made up of the smallest geometric shapes. These can be triangles, checkers or zigzags of various colors.
Brancas are divided into several types: they can be simple, composite and complex.
Simple branca. These are stitches and intervals between them, equal in size.
Compound branca. These are alternating short and long stitches, as well as intervals, repeated with the same frequency in each row or every other row.
Complex branca. These are stitches and intervals that vary in length, in position on the embroidery from row to row and form a different pattern.
The Oryol list has been embroidered since ancient times,using boards called bralnitsy. With their help, the warp threads were counted on the canvas. Orlov spis is sewn with very small stitches, counting the threads of the canvas precisely. It is these small stitches that form the branka. Small geometric patterns of the branka gradually fill the arbitrary smooth lines of the outline of the drawing. The drawing turns out to flow smoothly from one form to another.
Plots and motifs of embroidery Orel
"Tree of Life"There is a lot encrypted in this embroideryvalues and life values. Moreover, the codes are carefully preserved and passed on to the next generations as an inheritance. The most famous ancient storylines are:
The main motive of the Orlovski spill is "The TreeLife ". In ancient times, the elements of plants symbolized the very concept of Life, and not specific vegetation. They acquired a universal, cosmic meaning, as a consequence of the impact on the planet of solar energy and water. Pay attention that on all embroideries next to plant motifs there are necessarily different spirals, circles and crosses. This is a tribute to the sun, the so-called solar signs.
"Pava bird"Pava bird (bird of happiness), asAs a rule, it has a small neat head, a fan-shaped tail, a raised wing and a feather lying near it, most likely a magic one. Similar images of birds are found on Slavic metal objects found during excavations of ancient burial mounds. It follows that the plot goes back to very distant times. An obligatory and final element is the border-amulet. It gives the embroidery a finished look and serves as a special amulet for the entire composition. Most often, the border consists of a strip of brankas (checkers and small squares), which alternate with each other. Bindweeds, stars and rhombuses may also be present.
In our turbulent times, the Oryol list, like many others,types of folk art, was temporarily forgotten. But in recent years, handicrafts have begun to revive and have come into fashion again. Orlovskiy spis, as well as many other types of folk art, is being revived with renewed vigor thanks to craftswomen who have preserved the traditions and techniques of craftsmanship. The elders pass on their rich experience to the younger ones, who painstakingly study handicrafts in all their diversity. They master the ancient techniques and methods of Orlovskiy spis, being the continuers of ancient traditions.
Video: Old Russian embroidery "Orlovskiy spis"
