
Construction of a bodice pattern with a one-piece short sleeve for a woman with step-by-step instruction, description and photo.
The drawing below will be useful to you notnot only from the point of view of constructing a bodice pattern, but also for mastering the modeling of various styles and models of all kinds of wardrobe elements. Copy onto paper the back and the front of the bodice, which form the basis of the dresses.The side line of the bodice is transferred to the center of the armhole.To do this, draw a line from point G4 down to the waist level. In the example we are giving, point G4 is located at the middle of the armhole width. If you are using a base constructed using a different method, you should divide the armhole width in two and draw a vertical line from the dividing point, which will be the new side line of the bodice. The side dart is transferred simultaneously with the side line. The shoulder seams are transferred one centimeter closer to the front. Thus, the shoulder on the back rises by one centimeter, and on the shelf it falls by the same amount.
Let's move on to the back.The shoulder line of the back at the neck and at the dart rises by one centimeter, and the edge of the shoulders at the armhole rises by one and a half centimeters. To do this, from point A4, you need to put aside one centimeter upwards and put point A41. From points O and O3, you also need to put aside one centimeter upwards and put points O11 and O31. From point P1, continuing the armhole line upwards, you need to put aside one and a half centimeters and mark point P11. After this, you should connect points A41, O11, O31, P11. You will get a new shoulder line of the back part. There is another, simpler option: from point A4, you put aside one centimeter upwards, and from point P1 - one and a half centimeters, the dart is closed and a new shoulder line is drawn.
Also note that, if necessary, a dart onThe shoulder lines of the back part can be reduced or completely removed. Calculate the length of the sleeves. From point P11 to the right side, continuing the shoulder line, set aside the required length (one and a half - four centimeters) and put the mark P12. The segment P11-P12 is equal to the length of a one-piece sleeve. From mark P2 to the right side, set aside two - three centimeters and put the mark P21. Connect using a curve marks P12, P21 and G4, which will be the new armhole line of the back part.
Let's move on to the shelf.The solution at the bust dart should be reduced by two centimeters. To construct the drawing further, you will need a compass. From the mark G7, which is a kind of center, through the mark B9, it is necessary to draw an arc to the right. After this, the leg of the compass is placed in the mark B9 and a notch is made on this arc with a radius of two centimeters, the point of contact is designated as B91. By connecting the marks G7, B91, you will get a new dart line. Next, the shoulder line is reduced by two centimeters. For this purpose, two centimeters are set aside from the mark P5 in the direction of the right side at the shoulder level and the letter P51 is placed. Now the marks P51 and B91 are connected, after them smoothly connect the marks P51 and P6.
Next, close the bust dart so that it does notinterfered. From mark B3, measure one centimeter downwards and put mark B31. From mark P51, continue the armhole line upwards and measure one and a half centimeters, put mark P52. Marks B31, P52 are connected with a straight line. From mark P52 to the left side, continuing the shoulder line, measure one and a half - four centimeters of the sleeve length (the same as on the back) and put mark P53. To make the sleeves fit together as closely as possible, from mark P53, at an angle of 90 degrees, measure down the bevel size of 5 - 10 millimeters and put point P54. This size varies depending on several factors: model, arm or shoulder volume, degree of fit, etc. You will find out the bevel size only when trying on.
Segment P52-P52, determining the lengthone-piece sleeve, you need to make a curve. From the mark P2 in the direction to the left side, set aside two - three centimeters across and put the mark P61. Using the curve, connect the marks P54, P61 and G4 - you will get a new armhole line. At this stage, the drawing can be considered built. Or you can use it as a basis for the bodice in the process of further modeling. Using various modeling options and this drawing, you can invent all sorts of styles of robes, blouses, dresses and much more. For example, using various options for shifting the bust dart. Once again, we emphasize that in the given master class, the sizes are given as an example. You can take any that suit you.