Make the floor in the house with your own hands is very easy. It takes a little patience to carefully study the step-by-step instructions that you suggested with the photo
We make the floor of a private house with our own hands one of3 ways Living in your own home has a number of unconditional positive aspects. However, many, frightened by the need for year-round care not only for the house, but also for the garden plot, opt for apartment buildings. Here, these problems must be solved by utility workers, who do not always do it well. In a private house, on the contrary, all the difficulties associated with the operation of the building are taken on by the owner of the house. Understanding this, not many are ready to take on the construction of their future home. The lack of construction education or special skills should not become an obstacle, but it is necessary to understand the seriousness and responsibility of this step. You must correctly design and carry out each stage of construction. Below is a description of how to make a floor in a house most correctly. It is important to understand that in this case, it is not a decorative coating that is meant, but the base of the floor, the features of its hydro- and thermal insulation. Stage No. 1. We select the material for the base of the future floor. The undisputed leader here is, of course, wood. This situation was influenced not only by centuries-old traditions, but also by the practicality of the wood itself. The positive aspects of this material can be briefly described as follows: relatively low thermal conductivity, environmental friendliness, ease of processing and installation, repairability, and relative durability.
If you have chosen this material,it is necessary to select the type of wood. Otherwise, you risk getting a cold, short-lived and fragile floor. If you have the means, it is preferable to install an oak or ash floor, since these are particularly durable species. Coniferous species have proven themselves well: fir, spruce, larch, cedar, pine. Joists, boards and beams for floors should be selected only dry, with a humidity of no more than 10-12%. If this condition is not met, over time, part of the floor may become warped. Realizing all the positive qualities of a wooden floor, some builders still opt for a concrete floor. The main criterion for such a choice is its greater durability in comparison with a wooden floor. This option is also quite good, but when working with this material, special attention must be paid to the quality of the concrete and the technology of work related to its pouring. Stage No. 2. Selecting one of the floor design options. At this stage, you need to decide for what purposes you are building a house. A full-fledged residential building requires a durable floor with good thermal insulation, while a single floor is suitable for a summer cottage. 1. Single wooden floor. One of the simplest options for installing a floor, which does not require special qualifications and is quite convenient to use. It is advisable to use it when your building is located in a warm climate zone, or in summer houses.
If you plan to hide the floor joists inwalls, then do not forget to take into account that the width between the beams is usually too large for laying boards. In this case, you will have to resort to laying logs. To lay the floor on support posts, you can not use logs, placing the beams at the desired width from each other. When calculating the distance between the logs, you should take into account the thickness of the boards. A space of 60-70 centimeters between the logs is permissible with a board thickness of 38 millimeters. If this figure is 28 millimeters, the logs are laid at a shorter distance. 2. Double wooden floor. This option is more expensive at the construction stage, but more economical when operating the house, allowing you to reduce heat loss. The bottom layer is best made of inexpensive coniferous wood, and unedged boards and even slabs will do. It is recommended to place some kind of heat insulator in the space between the upper and lower layers. To do this, use expanded clay or make a mixture of straw (or sawdust) and clay yourself. More modern insulation materials, such as polystyrene, are also suitable. It is preferable to make the finishing (top) layer of the floor from tongue and groove boards.
Stage No. 3. Concrete floor.Pouring a concrete floor in a house can be divided into several stages. First, we make markings. The easiest way to do this is with a laser level. You need to put it at the bottom of the doorway and make markings along the walls. This will become the level for our floor. We hammer nails into the markings made on the walls in the center of the room and pull ropes to mark the level. Then we begin preparing the gravel backfill, which will become good thermal insulation for our floor. You should level the soil and remove debris from it. Then we hammer in pins, which should be 10 centimeters below the level of the planned concrete screed. Start making backfill from the wall opposite the door. After the entire area of the room is filled, the gravel should be leveled, tamped flush with the pins, which then need to be pulled out. Next, you need to fill and tamp a layer of sand, then smooth everything out. Waterproofing plays an important role, and in a house the floor is usually protected from moisture with a polyethylene film, the thickness of which is at least 250 microns. So, we have come to the pouring itself.
First, you need to level the wooden ones.beacon slats one to one and a half meters apart. They need to be installed so that the slat touches the upper edge of the rope that we pulled before, and only after that we can remove them. Starting from the far wall, fill the area between the two slats with concrete, level it, removing the excess. Please note that for high-quality waterproofing, the polyethylene needs to go onto the walls by 10-15 centimeters. If you use separate pieces of this material for pouring concrete, you need to carefully connect the joint line between them with tape. Pour the concrete floor onto the expanded clay base. With a flat slat, which is slightly longer than the indent between the guides, we level our fill. As soon as the concrete dries a little, you need to remove the slats and fill the voids with it, leveling out the unevenness. Cover the floor with polyethylene film, leaving it in this state for a month. We recommend that you spray the concrete with water several times a week after removing the film. This will make the concrete extremely strong. Thus, our floor in the house is ready with our own hands.And remember, no matter what you choose,floor equipment option, you need to strictly follow the instructions and technology, without saving on materials. If the floor installation work is done poorly, then even an expensive floor covering can soon deteriorate.
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