How to build a pattern-base of the dress will be interesting to learn absolutely all needlewomen
How easy it is to build a pattern-based dressto know every seamstress-cutter. Having learned how to do it, you can easily cut out the dress, blouse and so on of any style and any model. At first glance, it may seem that the work is very complicated, but nothing is impossible, and we will demonstrate it to you. You just need to follow the instructions and you will definitely succeed. First, we'll figure out what a pattern is-the base of the dress. By and large this is a cast from the figure of the model, perfectly fitting the figure of the dress. If you sew exclusively for yourself, then you just make yourself a model once, which will later be transformed into different versions by not complicated manipulations. Adding darts, flounces, smells and so on, changing the cutout of the gate, adding the sleeves, you will get a completely different version of the outfit. All the models of dresses that you see in the photos, you can easily cut and sew, taking as a basis the base drawing pattern. In the picture below you can see what the base pattern is To begin work on the construction of the required pattern, we need to prepare:
- a sheet of thick paper or Whatman (suitable and wallpaper unnecessary);
- sartorial meter;
- ordinary simple pencil;
- ruler, preferably rather long;
- Sharp scissors.
Detailed instructions for creating a basic patternfitting dresses For the correct creation of the basic pattern of women's dresses, we should initially obtain those measurements that are simply necessary during the work. So, we need to know the hem of the waist of the model, as well as the breasts, thighs, neck, length from the top to the waist (measured on the back), width along the shoulders. We also need to determine the height of the armhole at the back of the product, the height of the shoulder (oblique) and the expected length of the dress itself. All measured measurements will be recorded in centimeters. So it's easier and more convenient to work. We make the construction of the pattern of the back. On the left of the sheet of prepared paper, we draw a normal angle, which must be straight. We mark its vertex with the letter A. From it we postpone the following data of measures taken before work:
- height of the armhole (less by one centimeter) - set G;
- length on a back to a waist (it is less on one centimeter) - we put T;
- dress length - set N.
In the direction downwards from T we postpone the altitude byline of the thigh (set B). Regardless of the size of the product, twenty centimeters are always postponed. Now through B, D, T, H we will need to draw straight lines horizontally. The book from A we will recede two and a half centimeters, again, the data are characteristic for all sizes. In the end, we get the size of the neckline on the back. We will have this point A1. On the right side of A we postpone the third part of the value of the half-grip along the neck with an addition of five millimeters - got A2. Two points, A1 and A2, we need to smoothly connect with each other. To draw a shoulder line, put in the right side of A the previously measured width on the shoulder, from which we take exactly five millimeters - we get A3. From here we draw a perpendicular (got Г1) down to the chest. From T we draw an arc-shaped line, whose radius is analogous to the height of the shoulder oblique. Where the intersection of A3T1 is denoted P. After this, we need to connect together two points, namely P and A3. To make armholes, it is necessary to step back from G in the direction to the right, the value of the measure of girth on the chest divided in half and take away a centimeter - put G2. To correctly display the armhole, we need to outline some more points. In the direction upward from the point T1, we need to retreat the fifteenth part of F1P and note as P1. Now we postpone the fourth part of the FnP and set P2. From this point, put 1.2 centimeters on the left side and put the point P3. The points obtained, P1, P2 and P3, are smoothly connected to each other. Now we need to proceed with the design of the back line of the side. To do this, from T in the direction to the right side, we postpone one second half-girth of the waist with the addition of one centimeter and put T1. In the direction on the right side of B we postpone half of the measurement of the half-hip of the thighs with the subtraction of a centimeter - put B1. From her we carry a line down. Where it intersects with the line of the bottom of the product, put H1. It remains to draw a line of the side. We connect with each other by means of a straight line T1 and T2, also connect a straight line and D1 with H1. B1 and T1 are connected to each other by a smooth line. With the pattern of the back, we have finished, we will proceed to the pattern of the front part. All on the same sheet of Whatman should be drawn on the right side of the line along the vertical. In places where it intersects with straight lines drawn horizontally. The top point will be B, the intersection with the chest line is G3, further, the intersection with the waist line is T2, the intersection with the hip-B2 line, the intersection with the bottom line of the product is H2. To the left of B we need to mark B1 (we must add five centimeters to the width of the hemisphere of the neck zone and put it in the right direction). From B downwards we retreat seven centimeters. Thus, we get the depth of the front notch of the neck. An indentation of seven centimeters is done for all sizes without exception. This value is unchanged. We mark the point B2. Smoothly connect the two newly obtained points, B2 and B1. Thus, we have designed the front line of the neck opening. We pass to the next line, the shoulder line. In the direction to the left of B we need to retreat to a distance equal to the size of the segment AA3 and put P4. From this point, we retreat a distance identical to the size of A3P and set P5. Now we need to connect P5 and B1 to each other. To decorate the armholes, on the left side of G3 we put half of the half-chest of the chest, the measurement taken from the model at the very beginning, and we subtract another centimeter from the result obtained. We put G5. Now we need to mark point 66. To do this, from G4 in the upward direction we postpone 0.07 G4P5. Again from Γ4 we retreat 0.35 of the size Γ4Π5 and set Π7. From the result of these actions, the point of retreat is two centimeters and we can decorate the armhole. Smoothly with each other we connect all points, Г5, П6, П7, П5. The construction of the lateral line of the shelf will be realized in exactly the same way as the spins. That's it. We can assume that the pattern is cooking. If you want to build a pattern-base very quickly, then use the special programs that can be found on the Internet.