How to build a pattern of the basis of trousers, you will learn from the materials that are posted in our article

January 29, 2018 handmadebase

You should know how to construct a pattern for the base of trousersevery woman who wants to independently learn how to cut and sew various models of this universal element of clothing. Such a pattern is useful for creating different styles and models of trousers, since it is the pattern that changes, depending on the presence of additional elements, width, and so on. In this article we will try to tell you in detail about the rules for constructing such a base pattern. If you sew trousers yourself and do not have sufficient experience, you should use the recommendations for constructing a base pattern. It is worth noting that to create a pattern for sewing men's and women's trousers, various pattern making techniques are used. The construction of the base of men's trousers is carried out taking into account the lower waistline and seat height. Let's take a closer look at building the basis for sewing classic, tapered women's trousers.By using one base and making the necessary adjustments, you can model different styles of trousers:

the summer trouser style on an elastic band;
model with a belt of a coquette;
skirt-trousers;
Pants with different kinds of pockets;
children's models for girls and boys.

The basis of the pattern that will be discussed inThis material is suitable for women who do not have any deviations in their figure. If there is a non-standard figure, the base must be adjusted. Therefore, when using the base, you should take into account the distance for large allowances. The first step for constructing a base pattern – This is the creation of a grid drawing on paper with millimeter markings. This manipulation will make it easier to navigate during further construction. So, let's figure it out step by step:

1 – at the top point of the paper on the left side, mark point T. The distance from point T to H (in the lower left corner) – this is the length measurement on the drawing.
2 – mark on the grid the height of the seat frompoints T to Z. According to the standard for clothing size 44, this distance does not exceed 25 cm; for size 48, 26 cm is sufficient. However, each figure is individual, so you should accurately calculate the height of the seat (we will dwell on this point later). Point I on the grid corresponds to the most protruding place on the buttocks
3 – mark the hip line on the grid – point B. To calculate it, you need to divide the distance from T to Z by a third.
4 – marks the hip circumference with point B1.We draw a vertical line through it in the drawing. At the intersection of the marked points we mark new points – T1, Z1. Now all the main points are marked on the grid
5- go to the mark of additional points. From H1 postpone the mark, equal to the tenth part of the sex of the hips. We put the point H2.
6– We mark the knee line along the left vertical line with point K (as a rule, it stands in the middle of the BN segment).

It's time to go back to the right methodseat height measurements. Many magazines provide a special formula. It does not always provide an accurate indicator. To obtain more accurate indicators, there is an effective, practical method of taking measurements. The waist is tied with a lace or elastic band. The person for whom the pattern is being prepared sits on a flat surface. The measurement is carried out in a straight line, without touching the body, from the waist line to the plane of the chair. If you make too much allowance for the height of the seat, you will get an unsightly drooping trouser codpiece. The following construction of the basis of the pattern requires care, since it is necessary to make complex calculations, add additional lines and symbols. To construct the front half of the pattern, you need to use a red pencil.We take the following steps:

We mark the line of the arrow of the trousers with the point H0, and a groove will pass through it. This point is located in the middle of the segment ЯЯ2.
From the point of the arrow, the line of the knee K0 is laid down along the vertical line, the waist line T0 is upward.
If the figure has a protruding tummy, then the waist line drops a little – from T1 we mark T2 lower by 1.5 cm and to the left by 1 cm.
From the main point T, the point moves to the rightside seam – T3 and indicates a recess, the depth of which should not exceed more than 13 cm. the line from additional points to the recess is drawn smoothly with a deflection.
Line kulfika drawn to the eye and adjusts during the fitting, or by drawing, laying the instrument at points D1 and H2.
Smoothly connect point B and T3.
Along the bottom line of the pattern marks point H0 – the middle of the segment H1H2. So we will mark the width of the pants based on it.
We also act on the knee line, marking the point K0.

The final touch – connection of points I and K1,Ya2 and K2. To begin with, straight lines are drawn, then an indent of 0.5 cm is made and a smooth outline is outlined. The front half of the trousers is ready. We build the base of the back half using a blue pencil.We act step by step:

from point B at a distance of 1.5 cm the point B2 is deposited;
from K1 and K2 at a distance of 2 cm, we lay K3 and K4, similarly we enter points along the grid of the line H, laying H3 and H4;
we carry out the segments K3B2, H3K3;
from K3 through B2 draw lines, mark point T4 (above the waist);
the point B3 is constructed on the hip line, the perpendicular is drawn upwards, at a distance of 5 cm point B4 is placed, it must be connected with H1;
at the intersection of the line drawn from T4 to the segment K3T4 we obtain the point T5, we lay T6 to the left, we obtain a groove solution;
The groove is built in the middle of the segment T5T6.

As with the pattern of the front half, the topthe contour should have a smooth bend. To complete the lower part of the pattern, you need to connect point K4 to point Y3, draw a segment K4H4. On the segment R3K4 you should find the middle, move inward and mark the point. R4 is the difference when equalizing the segments R3K4 and R2K2. This is where the construction of the foundation actually ends. Of course, the basis requires the introduction of corrective elements, which is determined by the diversity of female figures.

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