Learn how to create a pattern of direct dress by yourself

January 12, 2018 handmadebase

To construct a drawing of a pattern of a straight dress, such measurements are required as shown below. For a better understanding of the construction, let's take their approximate values for size 46:

dress length 112 centimeters;
hem of the neck 18 centimeters;
a semicircumference of a breast of 48 centimeters;
semi-grip waist 40 centimeters;
half-girth of hips 52 centimeters;
length of the back to the waist 40 centimeters;
the length of the shelf is 44 centimeters;
the back width is 18 centimeters.

This article will not go into detail.construction of a drawing of a pattern of a straight dress. Let's consider the main points describing this process with the help of already constructed drawings (letter and numerical) We draw a rectangle AA1HH1.Width of a straight dress. AA1=НН1=52 cm.Calculated as follows: half-girth of the chest (48 cm) + 4 cm (regardless of the size). Dress length. AH = A1H1 = dress length according to the measurement (112 cm). Let's calculate the armhole depth. AG is one third of the half-girth of the chest (48 cm : 3 = 16 cm) + 3 cm (regardless of the size) = 19 cm. From G we construct a line parallel to AA1 to line A1H1. We get G1.Let's define the waist line.AT=length of the back to the waist (38 cm). From T we construct a line parallel to AA1 to line A1H1. We get T1. We mark the hip line. TYa=20 cm (standard size). From point Ya we construct a line parallel to AA1 to line A1H1. We get point Ya1. Segment AH defines the line of the middle of the back, and segment A1H1 – the line of the middle of the front. Let's calculate the width of the back.AC is one third of the waist semi-girth (48 cm : 3 = 16 cm) + 3 cm = 19 cm. We determine the position of point C1 in the same way, GS1 = 19 cm. We determine the armhole width. C1B corresponds to one fourth of the chest semi-girth (48 cm / 4 = 12 cm). From point B we construct a line perpendicular to GS1 until it intersects with AA1. We designate the intersection point as E. We make a recess for the armhole C1C2 = BB1 = 2 cm. Building the back Let's design the neckline.AR is equal to a third of the neck semi-girth 18 cm/3=6 cm. PP1=2 cm (regardless of size). A and P1 are connected by a pattern. Shoulder slope. SP=3 cm. Connect P1 and P, extend the line 1 cm to the right, point P2.Armhole line.C2G2 = 3 cm, C2C3 = 6 cm, divide the angle C2 in half, C2C4 = 2.5 cm. The data is used for all sizes. P2, C3, C4, G2 are connected according to the pattern. Side seam. From G2, lower a line down to the intersection with НН1 and TT1, we get points H2 and T2, respectively. From T2, measure 2 cm to the left. Let's designate point Я2, where ЯЯ2 = 24 cm. From Ya2, lower a perpendicular down to the intersection with НН1. Raise this point by 1 cm. Smoothly connect it with point Н2. Constructing a dart on the back. From T, measure 6 cm to the right along the segment TT2, perpendicularly up and down, from the resulting point, measure 10 and 12 cm, respectively. The width of the dart should be 3 cm. Constructing the front Raising the shelf. Г1Б = ½ × half-girth of the chest. We get 48 cm / 2 = 24 cm. G1B = BE0. Let's shape the neckline. BB1 is one third of the half-girth of the neck. According to the available data, we get 18 cm / 3 = 6 cm. BB0 = BB1 + 2 cm. B1 and B0 are connected according to the pattern. Bust dart. Point G3 is the middle of segment BG1. G3P1 is constructed perpendicular to B1G1. P1P2 = 6 cm. G3e = G3P1 + 1. PP3 = 5 cm. Let's determine the shoulder length. P2P4 = measured width of the back shoulder (14 cm) - B1P1 (4.5 cm by segment measurement) = 9.5 cm. Let's draw the armhole line. BB2 = 4 cm (for any size). Point a is obtained by deepening the middle of B2P4 by 0.5 cm. Divide angle B1 in half, B1O = 2 cm. P4, a, B2, O, G2 connect according to the pattern. Waist line. T1T3. = 2 cm. Hip line. Ya1Ya3. = 32 cm. Contour of the bottom of the dress. H2H3 = 10 cm. It is necessary to make a bevel along the Ya3H3 line by 2 cm. The pattern of a straight dress is ready! A classic sleeve shape will go well with such a dress. The construction of such a sleeve, as well as a collar for a dress, are shown in the pictures.

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