To learn how to build the basic pattern of a straight skirt, even a novice seamstress can easily

January 5, 2018 handmadebase

The basic pattern of a straight skirt is the basissewing this type of clothing. Even a novice seamstress who has at least the most basic theoretical knowledge will not have any particular difficulties in constructing it. A little attention, patience and time and you will be able to make a pattern of a classic skirt model without outside help according to previously taken measurements. Every woman should have at least one skirt in her wardrobe. It is especially important to have a classic straight model, which is relevant at all times and under any circumstances. At the same time, it is not necessary to buy a thing in expensive elite boutiques from famous fashion designers. You can easily sew it yourself, without spending a lot of your time and effort on the sewing process.The most important thing is to do it rightbasic pattern of a classic straight skirt. So, we need to make a drawing of a traditional base, which is basic. In further practice, it will be useful to us for sewing other models of skirts, such as a pencil skirt, a godet, elongated or, conversely, shortened models of various styles of skirts, a-line skirts, and so on. In order for the drawing of the drawing of the future product to be correct, we will need to very accurately take all the necessary measurements from the model.

SWEAT – measure your waist and divide the resulting figure in half.
POB – we measure the volume of the hips and, just like in the previous case, divide it in half.
ВС – we measure the height of the seat of the product (we measure from the model’s waist to the line of her hips, we take the measurement vertically), in most cases it is 18 – 20 centimeters.
DIZ – the length of the cut-out item (in our case, a skirt).

Next, we prepare tools and materials for work in advance. We will need:

Ruler, it is desirable to take a longer length;
Pencil (suitable simple);
tape measuring centimeter;
paper (you can use tracing paper, unnecessary wallpaper, Whatman and so on).

Back of the skirt, center line of the fabricIt is necessary to step back 4 centimeters on the paper that we have chosen for the pattern and draw a 90˚ angle. Point T is the designation of its apex. From this point, draw a perpendicular line down, the size of which corresponds to the length of the cut out product (DIZ). It will be designated on the drawing as TH. How to display the hip line on the drawing From point T, measure 18 - 20 centimeters (BC), depending on the height of the person for whom this product will be sewn. We get point B, from which we draw a straight line towards the right. Product width From point B, we need to set aside the measurement of half the hip volume (PHV) + 1 centimeter for free fit. We make a drawing-sketch of the basic rectangle. To do this, we connect points T1, B1 and H1. Determining the side line From point B to the right, we need to set aside half the size of the POT (waist half-girth) minus one centimeter. Thus, we will get the width of the line of the front part of the product, point B2. Then we will draw a perpendicular line to the line BB1. The intersection points are designated as T2, H2. We have received the traditional classic calculation of the pattern grid. How to make darts. To make darts on this skirt model, we will use the standard calculation formula accepted in all countries: The sum of all the necessary darts is equal to ПБ - ПОТ Side dart - the number of darts divided by two. According to this formula, we will get the solution of the side darts of the drawing. We will need to distribute the remaining darts on both parts of the pattern of the product - the front half and, accordingly, the back. Back dart - the total sum of the provided darts of the product divided by three. Front dart - the total sum of the existing darts of the product divided by six. To check whether we have made the calculations correctly, we need to calculate the sum of the solution of all darts. In the correct version, it should be equal to the number POB - POT. The photo shows where the darts should be placed.Important.In the case where the total number of darts is more than 14 centimeters, you need to raise the side cut of the product above the waistline by one and a half centimeters (from the side), and then connect it to it. In the case where the total number is less than 14 centimeters, we will raise the side cut by only one centimeter. We still have to design the cuts and connect them with the rest of the darts of the skirt, namely the front and back. Remember that the universal option is the basis. To achieve a positive result when constructing a pattern for a product, it is necessary to take into account the features of the figure. After we have made the pattern, it is transferred to the fabric, which is pre-folded in half with the front part inward. By making small changes to the main pattern, you can easily sew any model of skirt.

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