The basic pattern of a straight skirt is the basistailoring of this type of clothing. With its construction, there will not be any special difficulties even for a beginning seamstress who has at least the most elementary theoretical knowledge. A little attention, patience and time and you can without outside help make a pattern of the classic skirt model according to the previously taken measurements. In the wardrobe of every woman should be at least one skirt. Especially important is the presence of a classical direct model, relevant at all times and under all circumstances. In this case, it is not necessary to buy a thing in expensive luxury boutiques from well-known fashion designers. You can sew it yourself, without spending a lot of your time and energy on the sewing process. The most important thing is to correctly make the basicpattern straight skirt classical. So, we need to draw a drawing of the traditional framework, which is basic. In further practice, it is useful for sewing other skirt models, such as a pencil skirt, year, elongated or, conversely, shortened models of various styles of skirts, trapezoid skirts and so on. In order for the drawing of the future product to be correct, we will need to accurately remove all the necessary measurements from the model.
- POT - measure the waist and divide the figure in half.
- POP - we measure the volume of the hips and, as well as in the previous case, divide it in half.
- ВС - we measure the height of the seat of the product (we measure from the waist of the model to the line of its hips, we remove the measurement vertically), in most cases it is 18-20 centimeters.
- DIZ - length of the product to be cut (in this case skirts).
Further we prepare in advance tools and materials for work. We will need:
- Ruler, it is desirable to take a longer length;
- Pencil (suitable simple);
- tape measuring centimeter;
- paper (you can use tracing paper, unnecessary wallpaper, Whatman and so on).
Back of the skirt, midline lineIt is necessary to retreat 4 centimeters on the paper we chose for the pattern, and draw a 90 угол angle. The point T is the designation of its vertex. From this point, we draw down a perpendicular straight line, corresponding to the length of the product to be cut (DIZ). It will be indicated in the drawing as a TN. How to display the hip line in the drawing From point T, you need to measure 18 to 20 centimeters (ВС), depending on the height of the person for whom this product will be sewn. We obtain point B, from which we conduct a straight line in the direction to the right side. Width of the product From point B it is necessary to postpone the measurement of half the volume of the hips (POP) + 1 centimeter to free fit. Make a drawing-drawing of the basic rectangle. To do this, we connect the points T1, B1 and H1. Determination of the sideline From point B to the right, we need to postpone half the size of the POT (semicircle of the waist) minus one centimeter. Thus, we get the width of the front line of the product, point B2. Then draw a perpendicular line to the line BB1. The intersection points are denoted as T2, H2. We got a traditional classic pattern calculation pattern. How to make a dart. In order to make darts on this skirt model, we will use the standard calculation formula adopted in all countries: The sum of all necessary darts is equal to the POB - POT The lateral undercut - the number of darts divided into two. According to this formula, we get a solution of the side darts of the drawing. The rest of the darts will need to be divided into both parts of the pattern of the product - the front half and, accordingly, the back. Back tug - the total amount of the provided darts of the product divided by three. Front tuck - the total amount of existing darts of the product divided by six. To check whether we made the calculations correctly, we need to calculate the sum of the solution of all darts. In the right version, it should be equal to the number of the PBO - POT. The photo shows where the darts should be placed. Important. In the case when the total number of darts is more than 14 centimeters, you need to cut the side of the product over the waist line by one and a half centimeters (from the side) and then connect it with it. In the case when the total figure is less than 14 centimeters, the side cutoff will be lifted by only one centimeter. It remains for us to carry out the design of the slices and make their connection with the remaining darts of the skirt, namely the front and the back. Remember that the universal option is the basis. To achieve a positive result in the construction of the pattern of the product, it is necessary to take into account the features of the figure. After we have made a pattern, it is transferred to the fabric, which is previously folded in two by the front part inwards. By making small changes to the basic pattern, you can easily sew any model of the skirt.