We sew a female jacket with our own hands. The elementary process

A female jacket is both a fashionable detailwardrobe and preferred element of business style. Although jackets and migrated from the men's arsenal, they, paradoxically, are able to emphasize the femininity of the shapes and slenderness of the figure. A properly seated jacket can correct any deficiencies, correct posture and radically change the overall impression of the image. Picking a perfectly seated jacket is not easy. But in order not to resort to expensive tailor's services, you can learn how to sew a jacket yourself. Step one: remove the measurements. The pattern for the jacket is built according to all the rules for constructing a pattern-basis for the shoulder product. Necessary measures: chest girth, waist circumference and girth of hips. In addition, the amount of arm circumference in the armpits, at the elbow, when the arm is half-bent and wrists is needed - in case the jacket has a long sleeve. Vertical measures: the height of the back from the highest point of the shoulder at the neck to the waist, the length from the waist to the hip line (the one by which the volume was measured), and the same length of transmission. In the presence of sleeves - the length of the sleeve from the shoulder to the wrist in the half-bent position of the hand. An important feature: vertical measurements are taken through the protruding points of the figure - scapula and chest. As a rule, all other quantities are obtained by calculations. Step two: build a pattern So, the measurements are corrected correctly, and you can proceedbuilding a pattern. Let's start from the back. To do this, vertical measurements are first transferred to a sheet of paper. It turns out a kind of scale perpendicular to which horizontal lines are drawn. At the shoulder level - the upper point, at the level of the armpits - the second, at the waist - the third and on the hips - the fourth. Having thus drawn a sheet, it is divided in half and from the central axis is laid to the right and left of the volume values. Then the line of shoulders and necks is built. The shape and size of the throat need not be measured. As a rule, the depth at the back is 5-6 cm, and the width - 10-11 cm in each direction from the axis. The length of the shoulder is measured by a centimeter tape and is deposited from the top point of the pattern. Now it is possible to build a armhole armor according to the pattern. It is important to consider that the human body has volume, and provide for darts. To do this, they are built inside the finished pattern, and in order for the jacket to fit in size, the width of these darts is added from the edges of the pattern. The pattern of the transfer is constructed similarly, just the darts have a large width. Items such as a collar, lapels and pockets are built after the base, when all dimensions are known. Step Three: we start sewing. Having a pattern-basis, you can start sewing. The choice of fabrics is huge, and depends solely on your own taste. If the jacket becomes a form of clothing for a business woman, it is worth giving preference to restrained colors and classic fabrics, and if he wears jeans, then the choice is unlimited. It is important to remember some of the nuances of sewing: obtachka, collar, and lapels are glued to maintain shape, classic jackets must have shoulder pads. In addition, natural fabrics shrink, which should also be provided in advance. A lucky sitting jacket is a thing for all occasions, so learning how to sew it yourself is a very useful aspiration.

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