Simple master class on knitting for beginners, practice and create your own masterpieces with knitting needles

Simple master class on knitting for beginners, practice and create your own masterpieces with knitting needles

So, you decided you decided to learn to knit! Congratulations! I think you made an excellent choice. Knitting is a centuries-old craft, which was previously practiced mainly if necessary: ​​you want socks or a sweater - you have to knit yourself. Today knitting has become a popular hobby, although some call it a special form of art, and for some it has become the meaning of life! When a beginner looks at all this abundance of yarn and complex patterns of patterns, knitting can seem too complicated. But do not let this feeling affect you and remember that even the most skillful master was once a beginner. You may be surprised, but at the heart of any, even the most refined knitted thing, there are only two kinds of loops: the front loop and the back. The face loop is universal, it is the basic building block for all knitted goods. When each face is looped with facial loops, you actually knit a so-called "garter stitch." This knitwear got its name due to the longitudinal elasticity of the fabric, which was often used for hosiery belts. When adding a back loop, the number of patterns will grow even more! For example, by tying one row with the front loops, and the next with the wrong one, we get another universal type of knitting - "stocking", which is also widely used in different models. We will look at the process of knitting with the front and back loops step by step, loop by loop, and pay attention to those things that you need to know before you start knitting, as well as several important basic techniques (such as how to start knitting and how finish it). At the end of this book, you will find ready-made patterns for knitting handkerchiefs of kitchen napkins and scarves, as well as a pattern of knitting a scarf with an elastic band 2x2. You can easily link all these three models after a little practice! So, let's get started! CONTENT

  • Beginning of work
  • Set of loops
  • Face loop
  • Wrong loop
  • Closure of the series
  • The tying of a new yarn
  • Fix typical errors
  • Your first projects
  • Additional reading
  • Thanks

Knitting for beginners. Photo №1 Like any master, before you start working for youYou will need to prepare tools that should always be at hand. These include: • Yarn wrapped in a ball (if it is not already sold ready-made) • Knitting needles that match the yarn size • Tailoring meter • Crochet hook for correcting mistakes • Pen and paper for notes • And a bag or chest where you will keep it all! Yarn Yarn is the material from which we will create our masterpieces. In the future you will learn more and yarns and types of yarns that are used in the production of yarn. This is horse hair, and the delicate wool of a llama, and much much more! There are seven main types of yarn by weight, which will in fact tell you how thin or thick yarn you have. The table below shows the types of yarn that they denote and what size of spokes correspond to these weights and what they mean. Symbol and category name open-work hyperfine subtle easy mean three-dimensional very voluminous Yarn type Fine hosieryKnitted, hosiery, children's Sports, children's Knitted, for manual knitting For manual knitting, handkerchief, patterned Dense, for needlework, for knitting of interior objects For voluminous and knitting crochet The density of knitting (faces) of 10 cm 33-40 27-32 23-26 21-24 16-20 12-15 6-11 Recommended thickness of spokes in mm 1,5-2,25 2,25-3,25 3,2-3,75 3,75-4,5 4, 5-5,5 5,5-8 8 or more Recommended thickness of spokes according to number 000-1 1-3 3-5 5-7 7-9 9-11 11 or more * ONLY AS A RECOMMENDATION: the table above reflects the most often used types of yarn and sizes of spokes for specific categories of straight a. ** For lace yarns, larger knitting needles are often used to create a more lacy pattern. For these types of yarn, always give priority to the size of the spokes specified in the template. For beginners, it is recommended to use an averageyarn (# 4) Medium and the size of the spokes is 8 or 9, depending on how thick the yarn itself is. It's also good to use light yarn, so you could clearly see the loops. Yarn Labels There is a wealth of information about yarn. Carefully look at the label and you will see information about the fiber structure, recommended size of the spokes, recommendations for care and types of binding (for more details, see "Binding" below). When you have more experience, you will learn how to interpret the information on the label, and you will be able to decide for yourself what to use for this or that yarn. In order to learn how to knit patterns in this book, choose yarn with a knit density of 6-11 loops per 10 cm and knitting needles of 8 or 9 size. Spokes If you were in a yarn store or everything for a hobby, you noticed that a huge selection of different types of spokes is now available. There are wooden spokes and metal, made of different wood and various metals! You probably also noticed that there are straight spokes (two separate spokes) and circular spokes, which consist of two spokes connected by a cord. Circular needles are needed for knitting patterns around a circle or very wide patterns, such as knitted woolen shawls and baby blankets. In the process of studying you will try different kinds of spokes, you will understand which type you like best and which spokes are better suited for different types of yarn. For beginners, a set of straight bamboo needles is recommended. Bamboo does not slip, so loops will not spontaneously fly off the pizza. Density knitting In knitting, the density of knitting is very An important indicator that provides an accuratecompliance with the size of the model. All knitting patterns are based on a certain number of loops and rows per 10 cm knitting. If your knitting does not match these sizes, most likely, and your product will match the original sizes. You "determine the density of the mating" by making a sample - a square piece of knitting 10x10 cm. The model will tell you how many loops to collect and how many rows to tie to get a square of 10x10 cm. If necessary, you can change the size of the spokes if you do not get to untie corresponding pattern. To measure the density of the mating, put the finished sample on a flat surface, put the measuring tape parallel to the row of loops and count the number of loops at 10 cm. This will be the density of the stitch per line of 10 cm. Compare this to the value indicated on the label. If your sample is too loose (fewer loops than stated), you should take the needles a size smaller. If your sample is too tight (more stitches than you need to increase the size of the spokes. For models for beginners, the knot density is not yet decisive, but is still provided as a guide. This figure shows how the size of the spokes affects the density of the knitting. This sample is connected from one type of yarn with an increase in the size of the spokes at each color change. Set of loops "Set of loops" - this is the receipt of the first row of loops on the spokes. There are several options for a set of loops, but here we will focus on the classical method. This is a universal and reliable way that you can safely use for most of your projects. Tightening knot This version of the loop set starts with a protruding knot that is easily tightened as soon as you put it on the spoke. 1) Put the end of the yarn on the palm, draw the work thread around the index and middle fingers and cross the working thread and the end of the yarn, forming an intersection in the shape of X. 2) Slightly spread your fingers and stretch the working thread through the fingers from the back of the palm. 3) Pull the loop, slightly holding the end of the yarn to form a knot. 4) Put the loop on the spoke and pull the work thread to adjust the tension. For practice Make a few long knots. Train until it works! Classic set of loops 1) Leave a sufficiently long end of the yarn (about5 -7.5 cm for each loop, make a knot and put it on the corresponding knitting needle. 2) Arrange the ends of the yarn between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand so that the working thread passes around the index finger and the end around the thumb. 3) With the other fingers, hold the ends of the threads a few centimeters below the spoke. Raise your palm upward, forming V from the yarn strands (Figure 1). 4) Pass the needle from bottom to top through loop on the thumb (Figure 2), grabthread on the index finger and thread back through the loop on the thumb (Figure 3). 5) Lower the loop from the finger and, returning the thumb to its original position, carefully tighten the resulting loop on the spoke (Figure 4). Do not tighten the hinges too tightly or too tightly.loosely - loops should easily slide back and forth over the spoke, but do not hang too loose. For practice Type 20 loops. Remove all loops from the knitting needle and dial 20 loops again. Repeat this process until you feel that you are starting to do it automatically. This skill will take some time, but soon you will develop a muscle memory and everything will turn out! Face knitting The knitting itself consists in moving the loops from the left knitting needle to the right knitting needle, obtaining new rows of loops in the process. Let's start! 1) Dial 20 loops. 2) Take the spoke with the hinges in the left hand, and the empty spoke in the right hand. Hold the spoke a few centimeters from the tips, between the thumb, index and middle fingers. 3) Position the work thread behind the spokes, insert the right knitting needle from the front into the first loop (the tip closest to the tip) from left to right (Figure 1). 4) Now with the forefinger with your right hand, draw the working thread between the spokes in the back from the front. (Figure 2). 5) With your right hand, pull the right spoke - with the formed yarn loop - on itself and through the initial loop(Figure 3). Now you have a loop on the right spoke. All you need to do to finish the loop is to lower the original loop from the left knitting needle. Gently pull the thread to slightly tighten the new hinge. Repeat this process until the end of the series! When you tie each loop in a row, you will have an empty spoke in your left hand. Change the spokes so that the "full" spoke is in the left hand, and the empty one in the right hand, and repeat again and again! Continental Method There are several ways of tying the facial loop; The two most popular are the English method (also called "throwing") and the continental method (or "set"). Above was described the English way, in which the working thread is held in the right hand. With a continental method, yarn is held in the left hand. Try both methods to determine which one is best for you. There is no right or wrong way to knit, there is only one sure way: the one that is more convenient for you! The continental knitting method is described below. 1) The working thread passes from below and behind the needle. Thread the right knitting needle into the first loop on the left knitting needle (Figure 1). The tip of the spoke should be pointed away from you. 2) Wrap the yarn counter-clockwise aroundright knitting needle (around the one you just inserted in the loop) (Figure 2). 3) Pull the right knob back just enough to go under the left knitting needle and pull the yarn through the loop (Figure 3). 4) Lower the loop from the left knitting needle (figure 4). You just made a new loop! For practice For practice, tie a pattern: just keep knitting the rows! If you make a mistake, keep on knitting. You just practice, so while you can ignore the mistakes. Rule of the right leg Each loop has a front and a back leg. Each loop should sit on the needle with the "right foot forward". If you knit will loop the left foot forward, the hinges will be crossed. Wrong loop Step 1: As with knitting the facial loops, take the spoke with the loops in the left hand, and the empty spoke in the right hand. Step 2: Run the working yarn before the knitting needles. Insert the tip of the right needle into the front part of the first loop on the left spoke, from right to left (Figure 1). Step 3: With the thread in front of the knitting needles, thread the working thread around the tip of the right knob counterclockwise, between the knuckles from right to left and back again (figure 2). Step 4: Pull the right needle with the loop of the working thread down and back (from yourself) through the loop on the left spoke (Figure 3). Lower the original loop from the left knitting needle and tighten the new hinge on the right knitting needle. You got your first purl loop. Repeat this process until the end of the series. When you tie all the loops in a row, you will have an empty spoke in your left hand. Change the spokes so that the "full" spoke is in the left hand, and the empty one is in the right hand, and you are ready to start the next row. Note: If you will only bind each stitch with only the wrong hinges, you will get a handkerchief! How to determine the working thread Working thread - this is the thread that goes from the spokes to the tangle and which was tied to the last loop. This last loop is the last working loop at the tip of the right knitting needle. "Inevitably, you will be distracted during knitting. When you come back, just find the working thread, make sure that you hold the spoke with the last working loop in your right hand, and forward! " Yarn tension "Yarn tension" refers tothe way you keep your workforce. You need to find a way to hold the yarn so that your loops are straight, but not over-stretched to easily slide along the knitting needles and look more or less the same (without too loose or too tight loops). Figures 1 and 2 show two ways to keep yarn; Figure 1 shows the thread tension method for the English knitting style, and in Figure 2 for the continental style. When you pull the thread, you do two things at once: slow the spinning of the yarn from the tangle and guide the thread around the knitting needle. It sounds pretty difficult, but it's not. Why? Because there is no wrong way to stretch the thread. As soon as your hand becomes muscular, you will do it without hesitation. Closing (closing) of the series Such a mating completes the last row of knitting so that the loops do not part. First, tie two loops together, then *, withwith two loops on the right spoke, draw a right loop over the left and descend from the end of the knitting needle. Make the next loop. Repeat the action * until all the loops are tied. After you close the last loop on the spoke, cut the working thread and pull it through the last loop to close it. For practice Complete the series on your sample The tying of a new thread What if the tanglethe yarn is over? You need to tie in a new ball. There are several ways to embed a new thread, but here we will focus on the most common. Tie a new thread to the working thread from the side by an ordinary knot. Then slide the knot all the way so that it is behind the first loop and continue knitting with a new yarn. It is recommended to tie a new thread with the edge, since this method avoids visible connections and knots in the middle of the fabric. Correcting typical errors Untying: one loop When untying you move in the opposite direction, loosening the loop behind the loop from the right spoke and carrying the old loop to the left side of the spoke. If you have already finished the series, leave the full right spoke in the right hand. If you are in the middle of the row, find the working thread (the end that goes to the tangle) and take the spoke with the working loop in the right hand. The working thread leaves behind the loops. 1) In order to dissolve the loop, thread the tip of the left knitting needle into the loop just below the working loop next to the tip of the right knitting needle. To do this, pull the work thread; A tight loop will show exactly where to insert the left spoke. 2) Insert the left spoke into the tensioned loop from the front to back (Figures 1 and 2). This way you grab the loop of the previous row without twisting it. 3) Transplant this loop to the left spoke. Pull out the work thread to dissolve the loop. The old loop now sits on the left spoke - we untied one loop (Figures 3 and 4). 4) Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you reach the point where the error was made. How to avoid extra loops When you first start knitting, it would be goodcount the loops at the end of each line. If at the end of the row you have more stitches than it was, you probably added extra loops. Look for different loops on the spokes (see Figure 1). Perhaps you accidentally made a so-called "crochet". This can happen if you accidentally place the working thread in front of the spokes, tying the front loop, and as a result, the working thread will pass through the right spoke in such a way that it looks like a separate loop. To fix the random cake, untie the row to the crochet - to the point where the working thread was on the wrong side of the job. Nakid will fly off the knitting needle. Place the work thread behind the knitting, and then finish the row without an additional loop! Random tying of the first loop as two This common problem is a randomnakida: the working thread is above the knitting needle at the end of the row, from front to back, instead of being under the knitting needle. It pulls the first loop so that it looks like two loops (Figure 1). To fix this error, just dissolve the knitting to this place and delete it. Your first projects Project 1: Garter-necked scarf This scarf will also be a good practice for beginnersand a stylish accessory! Finished sizes: 10 cm wide and 100 cm long Yarn: SUSA # 6, super thick. The yarn, shown in the picture - Misty alpaca, Super thick, melange (50% cotton, 50% wool, 50 m / 100 g) SCH04, Oberon, 2 skeins. Needles: Size 11 Sample: square 10x10 - 10 loops for 18 rows garter stitch Level: Light Scarf Dial 12 stitches. Row 1: tie with the front loops. Knit until the end, until there is ~ 1 m yarn left. Close all the hinges and sew on the ends. Wear it with pleasure! Project 2: Kitchen towel with garter stitch You will like to knit such napkins for yourself and ingift. This is an interesting project for the practice of increasing and decreasing loops. Finished sizes: 25 cm square Yarn: Sousa # 3, worsted. Yarn in the picture - Lily Sugar'n Cream Solid (100% cotton, 110 m / 70 g) 01 222, green Needles: Size 7 Sample: 10x10 square 16 x 18 loops Level: Light Nakid Move the working thread forward and slide around the needle in front back. We impose two loops together Insert the right knitting needle into two loops at the same time and tie them as one loop. Kitchen towel Dial 4 loops. 1) fasten 4 loops. 2) tie two loops, make a crochet, and tie to the end of the row. Repeat until you have 44 loops on the spoke. 3) fasten 1 loop, then 2 together, make a cape, again knit 2 together and knit to the end of the row. Repeat until you have 4 loops left on the spoke. Close all the hinges. Project 3: Eraser This scarf is great for knitting practicefacial and purl loops, and the finished product is a wonderful gift that is suitable for both men and women. Finished sizes: 12x200 cm Yarn: Susa # 5, thick. The yarn in the picture is Bonbori (94% wool, 6% nylon, 80 m / 50 g) Color 5; 3 coiling. Needles: Size 10 Sample: 20 loops in 10 cm rubber band 1x1 Level: Light Scarf Pick 30 loops. 1) knit 2 facial, 2 purl loops to the end of the row. 2) knit 2 purl, 2 facial loops to the end of the row. Repeat 1) and 2) until you have ~ 1m yarn left. Close all hinges and sew ends. Tip: After the end of row 1, just knit on the pattern: all purl loops are purl, facial - facial. It's simple!